Lawn Aeration Tips and Tricks
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A healthy lawn is a happy lawn, but do you know how to go about keeping it green all summer long? That’s where knowing the why, how, and when of aeration comes into play. In this Done-In-A-Weekend Projects episode, join landscape designer and host Doug Scott to get the low-down on lawn aeration. He’ll help you get the know-how on the proper machinery to use, learn why aeration is a great way to keep your lawn healthy, and discover how to aerate your soil.
Download an in-depth PDF to see aeration benefits in action:
Why Aerate Your Lawn?
Aeration is the process of creating holes in your lawn to break up compacted soil. This allows the necessary air, water, and nutrients to get through to your grasses’ roots. Without these, it’ll be a maintenance nightmare—and your lawn will look worse for wear.
Compaction occurs when vehicles or equipment run over your yard, pushing the soil down and packing it tightly together. Compaction also takes place when you and your family are outside enjoying the backyard life—people walking, kids playing, or pets running across your lawn can make it nearly impossible for the necessary air, water, and nutrients to reach the roots.
Lawn Aeration Methods
Now that you know the “why” of aeration, it’s time to learn the “how.” All you need to see if your lawn is compacted is a screwdriver! Just drive it into your lawn—if you can’t do it easily, it means your soil is compacted and it’s time to bring out your aerator.
Aerators fall into two categories: core (or plug) and spike.
Core aerators are heavily recommended for larger jobs. They consist of rows of hollow tines that remove plugs of soil and lay them across the top of your yard. This leaves you with a lawn that’s no longer compacted and plugs of dirt that’ll break down over time.
Spike aerators look (and work) exactly how they sound—they’re just a small spike that you use to poke holes in the ground. However, they’re considered less effective given that they don’t go as deep and sometimes wind up further compacting the soil.
When to Aerate Your Lawn
Timing matters as much as technique. The goal is to aerate when your grass is in its active growing phase so it can recover and take full advantage of the improved soil conditions.
Warm-season grasses (Zoysia, Bermuda, Centipede) should be aerated in spring or early summer, when growth is at its peak.
Cool-season grasses (Fescue, Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass) are best aerated in early fall or early spring, when top growth slows but root development is active.
As always, it’s best to do your research on the type of grass you have in your yard so you can know when to aerate it.
Need-To-Know Terms
While researching how to best care for your lawn, there are two other aeration-related terms that you’ll frequently come across: dethatching and overseeding.
Dethatching is the removal of the thick layer of thatch on your yard. Thatch is the decomposition of organic matter (dead grass, leaves, stems, etc.) that builds up between your turf and soil. It eventually accumulates to the point where the air, water, and nutrients can no longer reach your grasses’ roots. This will require you to remove this layer to help your lawn thrive.
Overseeding is when you sow seed directly over a lawn to fill in bare spots or improve the density of your grass. This is often done just after aerating to help the grass seed take root.
Now that you have everything you need to know about aeration, there’s only one thing left to do: get outside, get aerating, and help your lawn breathe. Your yard will thank you later.
Download an in-depth PDF to see aeration benefits in action:
Frequently Asked Questions About Lawn Aeration
For most lawns, once a year is sufficient. Lawns with heavy clay soil, high foot traffic, or a history of compaction may benefit from aerating twice a year—once in spring and once in fall.
Water your lawn one to two days before aeration so the soil is moist but not waterlogged. Moist soil allows the tines to penetrate more deeply and pull cleaner plugs. After aeration, water thoroughly to help the soil settle and kick-start recovery.
Leave them on the lawn. The plugs will break down naturally within two to four weeks, returning organic matter and microorganisms to the soil surface. You can break them up with a mower or rake if you prefer a neater look, but it’s not necessary.
Aerate first, then fertilize. The open channels left by aeration allow fertilizer to penetrate directly to the root zone rather than sitting on the surface, making your application significantly more effective.
